THE HOT HEAD FLAME AND HOW TO USE IT WITHOUT TURNING DOWN THE TORCH

Written with special thanks to Sarah Sturgis, Hot Head Source.

Yes, the 2004 Hot Head Bead Torch is a little different. It produces a clean, very hot flame that stays clean and hot through all tank pressures. Through the years we’ve made small modifications so the Hot Head is the best, most reliable torch possible. The 2004 Hot Head produces the best flame and is even more reliable than it’s earlier versions.

To achieve this consistent, clean, hot flame, we made a compromise. The torch can be turned UP, to get that good reducing flame, but it cannot be turned down without blowing itself out. This might take some getting used to, especially for long-time Hot Head Users.

The problem is, through the years, some teachers demonstrated certain techniques by turning the torch down to make the sweet spot cooler. In fact, all techniques can be accomplished without turning down the torch by simply working in the cooler parts of the sweet spot. If you were trained to turn down, it will take some time to adjust your process.

This diagram uses colored ovals to show the temperature zones characteristic of ALL HOT HEAD FLAMES, the older as well as the 2004 Hot Head. The ovals are not visible when your torch is operating.

(1) Inside the deep blue surface of the flame, called the “cone”, is a highly reductive mix of unburned fuel and air. Combustion occurs on the surface of the cone, hence the deep blue color. Avoid putting your glass into the cone.

(2) The “sweet spot” is where you get maximum heat without reduction. It is positioned right at the end of the cone (but not in it). The sweet spot gets cooler the further the glass is moved away from the tip of the flame cone.

(3) Surrounding the hot region of sweet spot (2) is a cooler area where you can do stringer work, dot placement and other intricate techniques. Dichroic glass and other sensitive colored glasses should also be worked only in the yellow area because of their tendency to burn or fry. The yellow area will melt glass, but slowly. If you want good control, work here.

(4) Finally, the flame stream will cools enough to be used as a “warming area” (shown in pale blue). Use this area for keeping beads warm without re-melting. It’s also used for preheating glass rods, flame annealing beads and other “resting” procedures.

(A) Is a narrow, shallow, cooler glass working area. It’s actually part of the yellow zone that extends down the flame cone toward the torch. Many glass bead makers are unaware of this special spot. To use this tiny area, work immediately above the main body of the cone. Your bead or rod will partially obstruct your view of the flame. This is where precision melting and other micro techniques can be done. Because this working area is both narrow and shallow, it takes practice to use it. Care must be taken not to dip down into the blue cone.

(B) To achieve a reduction flame, turn the Hot Head up until a bright secondary flame cone appears to surround the primary flame. It will have a pronounced turquoise color. Work inside the secondary cone, but outside the primary cone for fuming or other procedures calling for a reduction flame.

Note to our wonderful Hot Head Fans: We realized that some lamp workers would prefer to continue to turn down the torch rather than switch to a new way. When you learn a technique and spend years getting it fine-tuned, it’s tough to change. For you, our special Hot Head users, we are designing an inexpensive brass part, the “MINIMIZER”, which will just snap onto the torch and change the flame dynamics. The flame won’t be as hot, but will be adjustable downward, just like the old days.

Basically, the Minimizer will you give you TWO TORCHES in one: The clean, hot, consistent flame of the 2004 Hot Head, and with the Minimizer, a smaller, adjustable flame like the old style Hot Head.

September 2004

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